Have you ever ridden a roller coaster where you have the first big thrill section and think, “Wow! That was awesome!” And you just assume that the ride is going to be over because that was so great, and then you realize, “Wait, there’s more?” And the ride just keeps going and going.
That’s how this trip feels. There’s this huge rush of seeing and doing something awesome like the Revelstoke coaster, the Via Ferrata, or the Icefields Parkway and I think it’s so amazing that this has to be the best best bestest part. Then there’s a lull and then WHAMMO! The next section of totally fantastic awesomeness hits.
But of course, not every moment is thrilling and sometimes it is downright upleasant. Warning, the next bit is the upleasant part…but be assured that more awesomeness is coming!
So, last Thursday I left off in Dawson Creek. Those two days were definitely a lull. The drives were a little bland and the camping was…meh-minus. The campgound in Dawson Creek was ok, but filled with a caravan group of big RV’s (around 30 of them!). Most of them were the big bus type and the number of people on the wifi made the speed ultra CRAPTASTIC. Just so you know, it took around 2 hours to get the last post and the pictures to all upload. An opportunity to grow more patience…which I must admit for me is a paltry sraggley patch I need to fertilize and water and care for if I want anything to grow! (I am not a very patient person).
The drive on Friday was mostly bland, with more than occasional stops for construction complete with dusty roads and impatient truckers. I had planned to drive to the Tetsa River Lodge (6 hours) but ended up cutting it short. The drive was rough with all the construction and thunderstorms and truckers…so I stopped in Fort Nelson (5 hours in google, 8 hours in reality). Some of that was a stop at Walmart and the Museum in Fort St. John. I also had a lovely stop for lunch at the Buckinghorse River. I pulled over into a day use area next to the river, opened up Rosie’s big door, made a sandwich and was enjoying myself. Then I had an emotional meltdown. It had nothing to do with the drive. I had listened to some podcasts which got me thinking, and that led to some major breakthroughs about some inner struggles I’ve been grappling with. I don’t really want to share more on this, this is just too private and personal. I had a good long hearwrenching sob, then got back on the road. There was still more crying as I drove and I even considered whether I should continue driving in the state I was in. Then, just like the thunderstorms I was driving through, it just stopped. It came in, poured like crazy, dumping buckets on my head, and then just as suddenly, it was gone. Until it came back an hour later.
The night in Fort Nelson was unpleasant. I had somehow ended up at the same campgound as the caravan (it was really the only legit campgound in town with showers and wifi). The place was ok, but they crammed everyone into the smallest of areas and then charged for everything, including the showers. The wifi was so bad I never did manage to connect despite multiple tries. The worst, though, was the mosquitoes. They were voracious and unrelenting. I ended up needing to stay inside Rosie because, even with bug spray, the swarm hovering around my face made it impossible to enjoy being outside.
Ok, you must be thinking this all sounds pretty shitty. I have to say, the yuck is totally worth it for the woohoo.
The next day’s drive still had thunderstorms and construction, but somehow a few small changes made it wonderful. The first part was a stop at that Tetsa River lodge for their famous cinnamon buns. The lodge had the misfortune of being smack dab in the middle of a major and lengthy constuction area. I waited in a huge line of cars for the “pilot car” to drive us through and 2.5k later we passed the Tetsa lodge. I wasn’t sure I could pull out of the line and pull in, but I realized too late that it was indeed possible. Shortly after that, we came out the other side with the line of cars waiting to go in the opposite direction. I realized I could drive past, flip a quick u-turn and jump into the line going the other way.
I am SO GLAD I did. First – holy shit. Their cinnamon bun was maybe the most delicious thing I have ever eaten…and I don’t like cinnamon buns. Turns out, they were even featured on Food Network! Oh my god, it was warm, buttery, and only just sweet enough to enjoy it with just enough cinnamon to taste it. The top parts were extra buttery and crispy while the inside was soft, warm, and gooey. Seriously, so so good. I am extra glad I got two (one for then, one for later). They also make homemade sausage and fresh baked bread. I bought both. The bread was ridiculously good and the sausage…I don’t know yet. I am saving that to share it with Bastien, who will join me in a few days in Fairbanks.
The rest of the drive was actually pretty short because of a few factors whose details will simply be boring. Despite being short, I saw a mama black bear with a tiny cub in the grass next to the road. I stopped and watched them for a few minutes. Later, some dahl sheep with tiny babies popped up on the side of the road, I stopped again to enjoy them and even got a picture or two. Then, I saw a Caribou! He was eating some grass on the side of the road. His tiny antlers were covered in velvet and looked so soft!
After a pretty nice drive, I arrived at my campground, the Toad River Lodge. Or, as I call it, Shangri-la. It was just simply wonderful there. I had a site overlooking the lake where four MOOSE bulls like to just hang out. When I arrived, one very large bull with huge antlers was hanging out in the lake eating not far from the shorline. I sat for at least an hour or two just enjoying watching him eat. He was simply magnificent. The lake also had two nesting swans and lots of ducks. The field behind the lake on one side had a herd of horses (around 30?) that would occasionaly fill the air with neighing and horse chatter. Oh, and then a bald eagle just cruised over where I was sitting and perched in the top of a nearby pine. Seriously, could there be a better picture? I made a point to sit out there again the next morning, this time it was two smaller bulls hanging out having breakfast even closer to the shoreline. Do you ever have experiences that move you to tears by invoking an overpowering sense of awe and wonder? Yeah, you get me.
The next day I headed towards Watson Lake, where I planned to stop for that night. First, I drove next to a huge lake called Mucho Lake. The road follows this long lake along it’s edge, perched only a foot or two above the waterline on a ledge just wide enough for the road. On the left, a scenic lake the turquois color of glacial silt. One the right, the rising cliff face of the mountain. The road winds along, curving in and out with the waterline. The backdrop behind the lake and down the valley is none other that the Rockies. As I was driving this, a thunderstorm rolled in and it poured. Somehow, with no one behind me, it just made it all the more scenic, romantic, and beautiful. I drove nice and slow and just took in the wonder of the moment. Later in the drive, I stopped at the Liard River Hot Springs and took the short but scenic walk to soak in the natural pools. After my soak, I enjoyed a nice picnic lunch, then finished my drive to Watson Lake.
In Watson Lake, I camped in a small lot behind a gas station…and that was the better option! Option 2 was to be in a gravel lot with the giant RV caravan again but this time literally lined up, one next to the other, like in a parking lot. Rosie would be like a little sapling in the middle of a forest of giants! That option was a hard NO, so the place behind the gas station became my home for the night. I spent the rest of the afternoon visiting the local museum about the ALCAN, seeing the famous “Signpost forest” started by one of the men who helped build the original Alcan, and visiting the Northern Lights Space and Science Center.
That night was rough. First, I had accidentally let a swarm of mosquitoes into Rosie. Before getting in bed, I spent 30 minutes smashing them, waiting, and smashing some more. When I thought I had them all, I went to bed and fell asleep quickly. I woke up at 1 am being eaten alive! I had another swarm in the van. I turned on the lights and smashed away. This time they had already fed on me, so the smashing was grossly bloody. I tried to go back to bed, but every few minutes another ghastly bloodsucker would be buzzing by my face! Lights on, smashy smash, lights off. Buzz buzz, lights on, smashy smash, lights off. Buzz buzz, lights on, smashy smash, lights off. Buzz buzz, lights on, smashy smash, lights off. It drove me insane all night long and there was no more sleeping. It turns out the back door was latched but not fully closed properly and those little buggers were getting in all night.
Today I got up exhausted but still drove from Watson Lake, through Teslin, to stop in Whitehorse. Today’s drive included 2 bears together grazing on the side of the road, amazing views of the mountains, a red fox, and a porcupine. It also included a stop at two really interesting museums in Teslin, the George Johnston Museum and the Tlingit Hertiage Center. Both were truly fascinating and I learned a lot about the Tlingit culture and the history of the Teslin Tlingit people through the photos by George Johnston, a member of the Tlingit Wolf clan in the area near Teslin.
Tomorrow I will turn north, up through Yukon territory, towards Dawson City.
Karen`s trips, travels, insane stories, and not-so-insane thoughts(I hope!) 